![]() I've learned quite a bit from the regular contributors to discussions of these basic tools and techniques, with the highest-level takeaways being: This does come up periodically, but that, for me, is a good thing. But I only use that when there are two followers. :) And, like guide mode, slowly building up proficiency is wise.įor guide mode, I have a preferred way to do the same thing. ![]() And I wear belay gloves like the guide in the video. Instead of a locker with the ATC, I use two opposite and opposed solid gate non-lockers. He then seamlessly TR’d back up on the same configuration. This was from a sitting stance and snug to the anchor off to the side. Yesterday, I smoothly lowered my 190 pound partner on a plain ATC off my harness 140 mostly vertical feet to retrieve a cam some other party dropped. In my experience with guide mode, small changes in circumstances can thwart what worked before. It is so easy.” And when it comes time, it suddenly seems easier to let the second struggle. So, for people new to lowering in guide mode, the reflex is “I do not need to practice. I think part of the problem people have with guide mode is because there are enough people that keep saying it is easy to do. Maybe if you plan on lowering a lot, or working routes at your limit and expecting multiple falls? Never understood bringing a GriGri on multipitch, or 2 belay devices. I'll buy another when needed, unless they come out with a slightly smaller version (like the Alpine Guide ATC), then I would buy that. It is great with 9.5 and thinner ropes and feels very secure belaying/rapping on doubles or tag lines. The Pivot is a little sticky in guide mode with 9.8mm and thicker ropes, but not bad at all. MUCH easier than the BD (and I assume the Petzl). This was to lower my partner 10-15 meters to work a section of a pitch that was vertical and all of his weight was on the rope. I don't have a ton of experience lowering in guide mode, for any device, but the few times I did it with the Pivot, it was very easy and I only tied a backup knot in case I lost control, no other leverage other than a biner in the hole. Marketing and DMM is less popular than BD and Petzl? My suspicion is that if BD/Petzl came out with a similar design, you would see them everywhere. ![]() I have no idea why more people don't prefer the Pivot. Also, have some adventures and make some mistakes, things happen and as long as nobody gets hurt and we can learn from it all good. ![]() ![]() Belaying off the harness is not nearly as efficient and can be awkward in a lot of situations. Some even cheat and steal! I think a lot of people don't fully know how to use a lot of what they have on their harness, but a quick conversation before you start your route about how you intend to climb it can help smooth that stuff over.īelaying with a plaquette device is the way to go. I had a partner tell me that once and I got on their case then never climbed with them again.Īre people just too lazy to give slack or not bothering to learn how their devices work? Is this more common than I realized? Multiple friction modes provide the optimal amount of stopping power when lowering or rappelling, and the device's guide mode lets you belay one or two seconding climbers off an anchor.Climbing coastie wrote: Having heard three or so times in the last four days “I can’t give you slack in this configuration” or some version of that, I’m wondering why people use “guide mode” without knowing how to give slack. With an oval-ized anchor hole, the device now feeds rope and allows you to pull rope more easily. 1361889 ATC-Guide Belay Device 42.95 42.95 CAD InStock /Outdoor Gear/Climbing/Belay Devices & Ascenders /Sales/Outdoor Gear /Clearance/Outdoor Gear/Climbing /Sales/Outdoor Gear/Climbing Black Diamond's most versatile belay, the ATC-Guide is now 10% lighter and features improved handling in guide mode.
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